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In the ancient Punjab region , people wore cotton clothing. The tops for both genders reached to the knees. A scarf was worn over the tops which would be draped over the left shoulder and under the right. A large sheet would be further draped over one shoulder which would hang loose towards the knees.

Both sexes wore a dhoti around the waist. The Punjab region had a flourishing industry in cotton during the 19th and early 20th centuries, when various kinds of coarse cotton cloths including lungi, khes, datahi, chadders, coasting, shirting, curtains, susi, tehmats, durris, towels, dusters, patkas etc. Along with different traditional dresses special types of ornaments are also very common.

The use of the suthan in the Punjab region also called suthana in Punjabi is a survival of the ancient svasthana. The svasthana was in use amongst the rulers in the Mauryan times — BCE , [7] amongst the ruling classes in North India during the Kushan Empire between the 1st and 3rd centuries C. E, [8] during the Gupta Empire between 4th and 6th centuries C.

The Punjabi suthan is a direct variation of the svasthana which can either be loose to above the ankles and tight around the ankles, or loose to the knees and tight to the ankles.

The suthan is a male and female garment but its use is particularly important in the Punjabi suthan suit whereby it is worn by women with a kurti or kurta. It is also a part of the Punjabi ghagra outfit.

Other variations include the choga robe and suthan combination. Ancient svasthana and varbana outfit worn during Gupta Empire , the basis of the Punjabi suthan suit. The kurta with its side slits in the Punjabi kurta can be traced to the 11th century C.

The kurtaka was a short shirt, with sleeves extending from the shoulders, to the middle of the body, and had slashes on the left and the right sides. The kurta also draws inspiration from the jama and the Punjabi angarkha. The kurta can be worn with a salwar, suthan, tehmat, lungi , dhoti , Punjabi ghagra and jeans.

The Multani kurta is crocheted using designs of Multan Punjab, Pakistan. A Phulkari kurta is embroidered using the Phulkari embroidery of the Punjab region. Bandhani tye-dyeing is popular in the Cholistan desert [16] area of the Punjab region. Bandhani patterns are used on kurtas. The traditional Punjabi kurta of the Punjab region is wide and falls to the knees [17] and is cut straight.

This modern Punjabi kurta is famous for its slim fitting cuts and smart fit designs. It is very popular among young politicians. The Punjabi suit is the traditional dress of women in the Punjab region. It is made up of a kurta or kameez and a straight cut salwar.

In some parts of the Punjab region , men also wear the Punjabi suit. The Punjabi suit is cut differently to the styles worn in Balochistan and Afghanistan [20] and is known as a "Punjabi suit" [21] [22] with the kameez being cut straight and flat with side slits [23] which is a local development as earlier forms of kameez did not have side slits.

In rural Punjab , the salwar is still called the suthan. Whereas the tehmat is of one colour and has no border, the laacha has a border and is variegated so that it has more than one colour. Bhangra Dance performers in Punjab wearing Kurta and Tehmat. In modern usage, a short kurta is referred to as the kurti.

However, traditionally, the kurti refers to upper garments which sit above the waist without side slits, and are believed to have descended from the tunic of the Shunga period 2nd century B. In the Punjab region , the kurti is a short cotton coat. Another style of the Punjabi suit is the use of the salwar which hails from the Pothohar region of Punjab, Pakistan and is known as the Pothohari salwar. The kameez is also wide. The head scarf is traditionally large, [36] similar to the chador or Phulkari that was used throughout the plains of the Punjab region.

The chola is a long outfit which is similar to a gown. It is worn by women and men and can reach the ankles, [37] or fall just below the knees. The traditional chola is closed by loops [38] and is tied on either shoulder and tends not to have side slits.

The chola is the traditional alternative to other upper garments of the local region. A choga is a long sleeved, skirted cloak that opens to the down front and is fastened above the waist. The Punjabi suthan is a local variation of the ancient svasthana tight fitting trousers which have been used in the Punjab region since the ancient period [10] [44] and was worn with the tunic called varbana [45] which was tight fitting. The Punjabi suthan is arranged in plaits and uses large amounts of material traditionally coloured cotton with vertical silk lines, called sussi [46] of up to 20 yards hanging in innumerable folds.

If a tight band is not used, the ends of the suthan fit closely around the ankles. The Punjabi ghagra was the traditional apparel for women before the advent of the Punjabi suit. The ghagra has its origin in the candataka, which had become a popular garment in the Gupta period. The intermediate formation has been described as a shirt like dress for men and women from the neck to the thighs. Saraiki Tradition women wearing ghagra Punjab, Pakistan.

Bridal lehenga with Gota Embroidery. The Punjabi Jutti is the Punjabi version of the shoe. Local styles include designs from Patiala, [55] the Pothohari shoe with sharp pointed toes, and the Derawali shoe with silk embroidery and round tipped. The Patiala salwar was developed in Patiala and is very popular with women.

Saraiki shalwar suits are Punjabi outfits which include the Bahawalpuri shalwar suit and the Multani shalwar suit. The Bahawalpuri shalwar [57] originates from the Bahawalpur region of Punjab, Pakistan.

The Bahawalpuri shalwar is very wide and baggy [58] with many voluminous folds. Nawab Muhammad Of Bahawalpur wearing a loose Bahawalpuri shalwar. Nawab Sadiq Khan Fifth died [64] in the Bahawalpuri shalwar. The Multani shalwar, also known as the 'ghaire wali' or 'Saraiki ghaire wali' shalwar as it is very wide around the waist, originates from the Multan area of the Punjab region.

The style is similar to the Sindhi kancha shalwar as both are derivatives of the pantaloon shalwar worn in Iraq [65] and adopted in these locations during the 7th century A. Block printing on cotton and other materials is popular in Multan which utilises local Ajrak prints. The other type of prints are known as chit Multani [72] or Multani chint. The emroidery styles of the Punjab region include the styles of Multani embroidery which features kalabatun [75] patterns using thin wires.

This type of embroidery is also common in the rest of the Punjab region. Kalabatan surkh involves using gold wires on orange coloured and red silk. Kalabatan safed involves using silver wires on white material. There are two kinds of gold embroidery, one of a solid and rich kind called kar-chob and the other called tila-kar or kar-chikan utilising gold thread.

The former is used for carpets and saddle cloths whereas the latter is used for dresses. The Punjab region also uses mukesh embroidery: mukesh bati-hui, twisted tinsel, mukesh gokru, flattened gold wire for embroidery of a heavy kind, and waved mukesh, made by crimping mukesh batihui with iron tongs.

Ludhiana and Amritsar are known for embroidery using white, silver and gold threads on clothes such as chogas and waistcoats phatuhi. The designs include representations of religious stories. The Phulkari is the traditional Punjabi embroidery used to embroider shawls and head scarfs in the Punjab region. The two styles of chaup and subar are worn by brides. The chaup is embroidered on both sides of the cloth. Only the borders and the four edges of the cloth are embroidered in fine embroidery.

The til sesame patra has decorative embroidery which is spread out as if spreading sesame seeds. The neelak phulkari is made of a black or red background with yellow or bright red embroidery. The colour of the phulkari is mixed with metals. Originating in Rawalpindi , the ghoonghat bagh is heavily embroidered around the centre on the edge to be worn over the head.

The embroidered centre is then pulled over the face so as to form an embroidered veil. The chhaamas phulkari hails from Rohtak , Gurgaon , Hissar and Delhi. The chaamas phulkari incorporates mirrors which are sewn into the cloth with yellow, grey or blue thread.

The phulkari of south and southwestern Punjab region , has wide edges upon which designs of animals and birds are embroidered. As is the case of the chaup, the edges are embroidered on both sides of the cloth. The senchi phulkari is popular in and around Ferozepur.

The senchi phulkai incorporates designs of birds, jewellery such as bracelets, earrings, rings and necklaces. Phulkari from Punjab, India, 20th century, khadi, silk, plain weave, embroidery, Honolulu Museum of Art.

Bridal shawl phulkari from Punjab, khadi hand-spun, hand-woven cotton , silk, plain weave, embroidery, Honolulu Museum of Art. Luanchari is a full-dress made of two parts stitched together: the upper part is the choli and the lower is the lehanga. The Punjabi ghuttana was popular with women and men in the Punjab region , a type of pajamma which is shorter than the full length pajamma, and is tight and ends at the calf.

Men and boys wearing a knee length variation of the Punjabi ghuttana [80] and Dogri kurta. The full suthan is tight from the knees to the ankles. The use of the churidar is traditionally associated with the northern regions of the sub-continent. Although there is no consensus as to its origins, the churidar pajamma was adopted by the former princely families.

For people of the Punjab region , the churidar pajamma which forms part of the traditional attire of men and women in Punjab [82] is a combination of the tight suthan of the Punjab region , the churidar suthan of the Punjab's hill area, and the traditional Dogri suthan which ends in loose bangles and is more of a loose pajamma as the suthan has to have a tight band at the ankles.

Accordingly, the churidar pajamma is believed to be derived from the suthan. The Churidar is popular all over the sub-continent and was developed in the Punjab region , and is associated with the Punjab.

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In the ancient Punjab region , people wore cotton clothing. The tops for both genders reached to the knees. A scarf was worn over the tops which would be draped over the left shoulder and under the right.

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